Mixed Emotions

As the second month of my adventure comes to a close, I feel emotionally pushed to write about the economy, and the status of the globe. I did not come to Korea to escape anything other than my comfort zone, and I tried to come here without preexisting expectations. I did come here with an open mind, self assurance, and anticipation of learning a lot about myself and the world.

It is an awful feeling when asked about where you come from, to be on guard for what the reaction might be. Or, to always be on the defensive about decisions of which you had no control over. I was raised to think like all/most Americans that the United States was a country of opportunity, acceptance, open mindedness, and strength for nations in need. It is one of the only places in the world where you can change your social class, get out of a bad neighborhood, and with hard work, make something of yourself. Although I still believe in this idea of America, I acknowledge that it has had 8 years of turning it's power towards the dark side. Eight years of abuse, risky spending, and unnecessary deaths. I resist the ashamed feeling I get when asked "where do you come from".

I realize this topic is over written, over spoken, and over talked about until everyone is blue or red in the face... I feel stronger about my views since living in Korea because of the debates I have had with foreigners, about the USA, and I feel that I have a more worldly and broader perspective than I did before leaving the states. Many people from within the USA laugh, or make light about the new hatred for America from other nations, nations that used to be our close allies. But, it's real, true, and very scary to think that "yes, I am connected with this hatred, and this problem." For me, this realization of being considered part of the problem, was difficult and upsetting.

In one conversation I had with a man from the Netherlands, he asked, "If everyone hates your government, why don't you do something about it?" This question came after 30 minutes of talking about issues within the country and when asked I had no answer. The only thing I could think to respond with was, "how?". How can people rise up in such a large nation, with such a variety of views, ideas, and opinions? It's not like we live with only one other idea or option. If people decided to rise up and kick Bush out there would be too many people trying to lead, too many opinions, too many differences, and inevitable more violence due to the vast differences that make our country what it is. The man just stared at me and said, "in my country, we are critical of our government, so why aren't Americans?" Needless to say, this debate went on for over an hour, at a bar, probably between the time of 1 and 2am. I ended the debate with, "thank you for sharing your opinions with me, it is nice to talk with someone who is from a different perspective." and I walked away.

I left the conversation feeling truly challenged by what that opinionated foreigner had to say. I now realise that this change we need is on the cusp of actually happening. It is happening peacefully and respectfully, through preconditioned rules that have been in place for decades. As I sit in front of my computer watching You Tube or CNN, I am overcome with emotions that I have never felt before. One man has stood up to the challenge, taken the initiative, devised the start to a better path. He has not been muddled by nay-sayers, corrupt by the media, or discouraged by various challenges that have faced him. John McCain made fun of Barak Obama at the Alan Smith Dinner by saying that "being a Messiah is out of his pay grade", but I do not think that it is out of line to say that Obama is the closest thing to a "Messiah" this country has seen in my life time.

Jared and his sister, Lee Ann, had the privilege to meet Mr. Obama at a used book store on the south side of Chicago. He said he was simply wearing a hooded sweat shirt and a jacket browsing through the isles alone. Jared said "Hello" and Lee Ann said she had just gotten back from Kenya and said " They love you there sir.", Mr. Obama replied with, "yes but, how did you like it?". She said she liked being in Kenya very much. Then, Jared said he wished him good luck in the upcoming election, Mr. Obama shook his hand, looked him in the eye and said "Thank you". He is a man who is in touch with the people. Who has not lost himself in money or greed, and can still ask the opinion of a stranger in a book store.

I left the United States feeling discouraged, angry, and embarrassed about our government. As a teacher, the 8 years of Bush's rein has made it even more difficult for educators to do what they are passionate about, because of new and unfunded policies. I became a teacher because I love helping, I love learning, I love making education possible for people that did not think they had a chance. Listening to Barak Obama makes me excited to be an educator and he refuels my drive to make things happen. I do not expect all of his ideas and plans to come true. I do not expect a drastic or rapid change in anything. I do expect a turn in the right direction, and a clean and honest start from a man who has our nations best interest at heart. I expect Americans to open their eyes and make this change happen, and stop being comfortable with bad news.

As I end my political rant, I am sad to be out of the country at this historic time, and I would give almost anything to be in Grant park on election day. For the good and the bad, I miss my home country, my friends, and especially my family. I am going to have to settle for calling in sick from school, and watching live broadcasts from my computer. But, I can say that if all goes well, I will re-enter the United States of America with more respect than I left it.

Gyeong-ju: Bikes, Tombs, Mr. Koons, and Buddha!

On the first weekend of October we had a glorious long weekend.  No school on Friday!!  Originally we had planed to go to Seoul, but our plans fell through due to poor planning.  After sleeping in until a peaceful 10:30am we decided to spend our long weekend in Gyeong-ju.  The capital city of the Shilla dynasty from the 5th century.  Gyeong-ju is known for housing more tombs that you can count and monuments, statues, and temples to boot.  Also appealing was the availability of renting and using mountain bikes to get around, and a man made lake. By noon we were on a $4 bus to this mystical land.  

One hour later we were in Gyeong-ju.  We had no plans other than to find a place to stay for the night and rent some bikes.  We walked around to find that the hotel we had our eyes on was booked, so we decided on the neighboring hostel.  Mr. Koon's hostel was a funny, cozy, quirky place.  But, the recommendation from Lonely Planet let us know, not to be afraid.  Plus, it was only $35 for the night.  Mr. Koons spoke English and Japanese and greeted us wearing questionably dirty shorts and a ragged old t-shirt.  He showed us to our room with a double mattress on the floor and we quickly put our stuff down and headed out for some sight seeing.  As we walked out the door he handed us home made maps that he himself had created, that had recommendations of restaurants, bike rental places, and tourist attractions.  He seemed like the epitome of someones crazy uncle.  

Then, we rented bikes, and were off to see some tombs.  We entered this grassy park looking place, where there were large mounds.  The large mounds were the actual tombs.  The larger the mound, the more important the person who was buried there.  It was the same philosophy as the Egyptians, but toned down a couple notches.  Most of the tombs we saw were from around the 5th century when the Shilla empire ruled over Korea.  It was wonderful to be surrounded  by these man made things that were SO OLD!  The only thing that occurred to us when we saw the line for the one tomb you could enter was... everyone else took this weekend for a holiday too.  It was a Korean National holiday, kind of like Independence day.  So, foreigners and Koreans alike were also seeing the sights.  

Next we road our bikes to the lake.  This was a beautiful trek that stayed mostly on bike paths.  This I really appreciated because it is rare to find bike helmets here in Korea, no less one you can rent.  So, no worries family and friends, I was very cautious and came out with all my limbs, appendages, and an un-cracked skull!  :-)  

We got to the lake after several detours, and found ourselves in the middle of a concert.  A concert where grown adults were riding around, in pairs, on big wheel cars and motorcycles.  Yes!  Adults were renting and scooting around on toys meant for a 5 year old child.  I found this hilarious until they also seemed to have the same sense of direction as a 5 year old and you had to watch where you were walking so you wouldn't get taken out at the shins.  After seeing this, we got a couple beers, sat on the side of the road and watched a night time badminton match.  It was a long day!   

Saturday we got up early, had a quick egg Mc muffin and tried to ride our bikes to a mountain to see a monumental Buddha.  The biking thing didn't last long, as we realized we were going to have to pass through a mass of mountains to get where we were going... So, we boarded a bus and went to see Bulguksa Temple.  After another detour we arrived at the park where the temple was along with a large Buddha we had come to see.  As I said, it was Korean Independence day.... so picture Disneyland type crowds.  

We were able to tour the temple, which was from the 5th century also, but was destroyed during the Japanese invasion.  It was only rebuilt in 1975.  It was still an amazing masterpiece to be seen!  The architecture and details are things that need to be in front of you to truly appreciate.  We then hiked for an hour.  An hour straight up hill, to see the Seokguram Grotto.  The grotto houses a Buddha that is part of the UNESCO World Heritage List. The United Nations has created this list to help preserve national treasures.  This Buddha has been included on the list because:  

"...as a masterpiece of Far Eastern Buddhist art. The complex that it fors with Pulgusa Temple is an outstanding example of the religious architecture of the region and of the material expression of Buddhist belief."  - United Nations (http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/736)

We were able to finally make it to the top of the mountain to see this treasure, to see there was an hour long line.  But, who's going to complain when they have the opportunity to see something so unique, masterful, exquisite, and powerful?  So, we waited ..... and finally were able to see the magnificent Buddha for about 1 minute.  It was totally worth it, and I feel luck to have looked upon this treasure with my own eyes.  The Buddha was built in the 8th century and untouched by invasions.  It was about 15ft tall and surrounded, in a key hole shape, by 11 other deities.  It was a very calming and extreme experience.  

We then descended  the mountain, jumped back on a bus, and picked up our bags that Mr. Koons had been holding for us all day.  We went to the train station to buy another $4 bus ticket!  and waited for our departure. 

It was a beautiful weekend, filled with serene landscape and magical sculptures.  I left with the feeling of satisfaction, exhaustion, and feeling closer to the country that is now my home.  

The risky game of "side walk chicken"

It's a strange feeling to acknowledge that living in Korea has suddenly lost it's shock appeal. Suddenly life has become just life and work just work.  There's few new daily discoveries and sleeping takes precident over exploring a new neighborhood or market.  It's funny that in as little as a month, such a foreign culture can become home, and a new apartment can be considered comfortable.  Don't get me wrong, I'm still having a blast, and I like my new comfortable routine.  But, it's hard to imagine becoming comfortable in a foreign place until you actually do it.  

On my 25 minute walk home from school (straight up a mountain), I frequently think about comparisons between living in Chicago and living in Busan.  I think about all of the things that were great about Chicago, and then try and compare them to my new life.  Here is a list of those thoughts that have crossed my mind:

1.  Friendly people:

People in Busan are some of the most friendly people I have ever met in my life.  They may stare at you, but the harder they stare the more they would like to talk to you.  It's been told to me that Busan (being a southern most city) is like the friendly south of the USA.  It emanates "southern hospitality" and wholesome values.  The fellow foreigners I meet are also SUPER friendly, but of a different accord.  There are 2 kinds of non-Koreans here.  People who are lookin

g for an adventure, and people who can not function in their home country for one reason or another.  Therefore, when meeting people, it's rather easy to pick out the travelers from the people who are..... lets say ... more than a little "off".  All in all, I have met some wonderful, genuine and interesting people.

2.  Public Transportation: 

I had always admired cities with great public transportation systems.  While living in Chicago, I was not dependant upon the public transport, so it took me longer to form the attitude that most patrons of the CTA(Chicago Transit Authority) acquire.  As I became more reluctant to use my car, I realized that the bitching and whining I heard daily about the system, was accurate, and the CTA was less than convenient.  Waiting 20-45 minutes for a bus seemed unacceptable, and no one ever knew when that next train was coming by.  

Here in Busan, there are buses that run strange, but very frequent routes, and I have never waited more than 5 minutes for one.  That is the same for the subway.  The subway is known to be the cleanest and one of the best run subway systems in the world.  It's quiet, clean, steady, and a train comes every 5 minutes.  It starts and stops SO accurately that there are specific gates where the doors open and close.  Therefore, the drivers have to make sure the doors open at precisely the correct spot.  WOW~  Chicago you have a lot to improve upon!  

3.  Sidewalk etiquette:

A mystery here in Busan is the way Koreans walk.  Whether it's the sidewalk, in an alley, at a mall, in a hall way, or any other walkable area, it is unknown whether there is logic behind their motions, or if they are just holding their ground thereby protecting their territory.  When I first got here, I was walking down the street and thought to myself, "I wonder which side of the street should i walk on"  I was thinking this because there are 1/2 dividing lines on most of their paths, so naturally I would assume that if you are going in one direction you walk on the right side, and the other direction the left.  NOT SO>   There is no correct way to walk down the street, and no rule, etiquette or common habit.  

Here's an example:

You are walking down the street.  You have the whole sidewalk to yourself.  (it's a big sidewalk)  Then, in the distance, you see a man walking towards you.  Out of common sense you pick a side of the path to walk on, so the man can comfortably pass you.  At this point, the man refuses to move out of the way, continues to walk either in the middle of the path, or barge directly into you. Thus, leaving you with no other choice, but to quickly move to another but much more uncomfortable direction, or even into the street.  

While walking in a mall, woman and men alike, do NOT move out of the way when they are walking towards you.  They will not adjust their line of direction.  They will make eye contact with you and allow you to think that they see you coming, and that they should compromise on how to walk by each other.  But, that is just not the case.   Lesson learned...  While walking anywhere in Korea,  it is a constant game of sidewalk "chicken".  One has to be constantly on allert to who's going to step on their foot, knock them with a large purse, or just shoulder chekc them into a wall.  I am unsure whether it is a common trait, or a threat against foreigners.  Either way, while walking in Korea, be prepared to get pushed, knocked into, or move out of the way!  I never thought I'd miss the Chicago sidewalks.... but I do!

3.  Access to THINGS:

One thing that I miss significantly is being able to want something, and then going to get it.  I love being independent and self-sufficient.  But, here in Korea, little tasks such as buying groceries is significantly difficult.  The first time I went grocery shopping I spent WAY too much time just staring at bottles and packages looking for a trace of English.  Sometimes I end up buying stuff, just because it has some English words on it to allow me to distinguish what it might be.  I realize that that is part of the deal while living in a foreign country... but it's hard that a trip to the grocery store will leave you with a headache from staring at the packages too long, and not the food you intended to buy.  

4.  Great City:

I loved Chicago because it is a great city!  I love the busy-ness, the hubbub, and the fact that it never sleeps.  In Chicago I had access to everything, and opportunities seemed easy to come by.  Here, the city is wonderful.  Bars don't seem to close.... ever, people are always out and about, and if I knew the language I'm sure things would be much easier to come upon.  Even the pristine subway is never crowded enough that you feel claustrophobic.  Both cities are awesome places to live!  I am super happy that I have had the opportunity to say that I have lived in both of them.

Those are just a few things that come to mind when comparing Chicago to Busan.  All in all, both are amazing places and I feel truly blessed to have the opportunity to have lived in them.  I have more to come about my thoughts.  

Including:  

Fashion- The country of Socks and Sandles, 

Food- Spicy, fishy or both?, 

Manners- I will sneeze in your face, step on your toe, and push by you without saying "excuse me", 

and many many more subjects that may culturally surprise you!  

All is well!