Gyeong-ju: Bikes, Tombs, Mr. Koons, and Buddha!

On the first weekend of October we had a glorious long weekend.  No school on Friday!!  Originally we had planed to go to Seoul, but our plans fell through due to poor planning.  After sleeping in until a peaceful 10:30am we decided to spend our long weekend in Gyeong-ju.  The capital city of the Shilla dynasty from the 5th century.  Gyeong-ju is known for housing more tombs that you can count and monuments, statues, and temples to boot.  Also appealing was the availability of renting and using mountain bikes to get around, and a man made lake. By noon we were on a $4 bus to this mystical land.  

One hour later we were in Gyeong-ju.  We had no plans other than to find a place to stay for the night and rent some bikes.  We walked around to find that the hotel we had our eyes on was booked, so we decided on the neighboring hostel.  Mr. Koon's hostel was a funny, cozy, quirky place.  But, the recommendation from Lonely Planet let us know, not to be afraid.  Plus, it was only $35 for the night.  Mr. Koons spoke English and Japanese and greeted us wearing questionably dirty shorts and a ragged old t-shirt.  He showed us to our room with a double mattress on the floor and we quickly put our stuff down and headed out for some sight seeing.  As we walked out the door he handed us home made maps that he himself had created, that had recommendations of restaurants, bike rental places, and tourist attractions.  He seemed like the epitome of someones crazy uncle.  

Then, we rented bikes, and were off to see some tombs.  We entered this grassy park looking place, where there were large mounds.  The large mounds were the actual tombs.  The larger the mound, the more important the person who was buried there.  It was the same philosophy as the Egyptians, but toned down a couple notches.  Most of the tombs we saw were from around the 5th century when the Shilla empire ruled over Korea.  It was wonderful to be surrounded  by these man made things that were SO OLD!  The only thing that occurred to us when we saw the line for the one tomb you could enter was... everyone else took this weekend for a holiday too.  It was a Korean National holiday, kind of like Independence day.  So, foreigners and Koreans alike were also seeing the sights.  

Next we road our bikes to the lake.  This was a beautiful trek that stayed mostly on bike paths.  This I really appreciated because it is rare to find bike helmets here in Korea, no less one you can rent.  So, no worries family and friends, I was very cautious and came out with all my limbs, appendages, and an un-cracked skull!  :-)  

We got to the lake after several detours, and found ourselves in the middle of a concert.  A concert where grown adults were riding around, in pairs, on big wheel cars and motorcycles.  Yes!  Adults were renting and scooting around on toys meant for a 5 year old child.  I found this hilarious until they also seemed to have the same sense of direction as a 5 year old and you had to watch where you were walking so you wouldn't get taken out at the shins.  After seeing this, we got a couple beers, sat on the side of the road and watched a night time badminton match.  It was a long day!   

Saturday we got up early, had a quick egg Mc muffin and tried to ride our bikes to a mountain to see a monumental Buddha.  The biking thing didn't last long, as we realized we were going to have to pass through a mass of mountains to get where we were going... So, we boarded a bus and went to see Bulguksa Temple.  After another detour we arrived at the park where the temple was along with a large Buddha we had come to see.  As I said, it was Korean Independence day.... so picture Disneyland type crowds.  

We were able to tour the temple, which was from the 5th century also, but was destroyed during the Japanese invasion.  It was only rebuilt in 1975.  It was still an amazing masterpiece to be seen!  The architecture and details are things that need to be in front of you to truly appreciate.  We then hiked for an hour.  An hour straight up hill, to see the Seokguram Grotto.  The grotto houses a Buddha that is part of the UNESCO World Heritage List. The United Nations has created this list to help preserve national treasures.  This Buddha has been included on the list because:  

"...as a masterpiece of Far Eastern Buddhist art. The complex that it fors with Pulgusa Temple is an outstanding example of the religious architecture of the region and of the material expression of Buddhist belief."  - United Nations (http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/736)

We were able to finally make it to the top of the mountain to see this treasure, to see there was an hour long line.  But, who's going to complain when they have the opportunity to see something so unique, masterful, exquisite, and powerful?  So, we waited ..... and finally were able to see the magnificent Buddha for about 1 minute.  It was totally worth it, and I feel luck to have looked upon this treasure with my own eyes.  The Buddha was built in the 8th century and untouched by invasions.  It was about 15ft tall and surrounded, in a key hole shape, by 11 other deities.  It was a very calming and extreme experience.  

We then descended  the mountain, jumped back on a bus, and picked up our bags that Mr. Koons had been holding for us all day.  We went to the train station to buy another $4 bus ticket!  and waited for our departure. 

It was a beautiful weekend, filled with serene landscape and magical sculptures.  I left with the feeling of satisfaction, exhaustion, and feeling closer to the country that is now my home.